El efecto Azzedine Alaïa: Obituario a uno de los más grandes de la alta costura

Por: María José Gonzálvez 18-11-2017

Azzedine Alaïa muere a los 82 años, y este es el gran legado que deja. Hoy la industria llora su muerte pero no hay duda de que su esencia queda para inspirar al futuro de la misma.

Azzedine Alaïa, uno de los grandes de la era moderna, murió el sábado en la capital francesa, París. Con un gran legado, hoy el mundo de la moda llora su muerte por ser un visionario y maestro de la confección.

Alaïa nació al sur de Túnez el 26 de febrero de 1935. Su pasión por la moda se formó desde pequeño gracias a sus tías y abuela. Según The Guardian fue su abuela quien lo alentó a estudiar escultura en la Escuela de Bellas Artes de Túnez. Enamorado de la figura humana y del arte de vestirla, el diseñador se mudó a París donde trabajó para “Dior (cinco días), Guy Laroche y creó el prototipo del famoso vestido de Yves Saint Laurent, Mondrian”.

Nadie entendía la alta costura como Azzedine Alaïa. Luego de complementar su conocimiento con las grandes maisons y ser el couturier por excelencia de la alta sociedad francesa, decidió abrir su homónima casa de costura en 1979. Aunque fue un diseñador un tanto recluso (no encontraba el placer en el ojo mediático) ha sido una incansable referencia en la cultura Pop. Sus creaciones fueron dotadas como la segunda piel de la figura femenina al entender con exactitud el cuerpo humano.

Para el tunecino, el arte de la confección era un proceso sin tiempo límite. Rompiendo con el calendario establecido, el couturier decidió mover sus presentaciones cuando el glamour de cada fashion week terminara. Cada desfile traía consigo piezas de fantasía que incorporaban lujo y feminidad al mismo tiempo. Su regreso al calendario fue tan solo hace cuatro meses, donde presentó una colección única. Para la ocasión, Naomi Campbell —quien lo llamaba “papa”— abrió y cerró la pasarela; un momento que queda congelado en la mente de los asistentes.

Su aportación al mundo e industria fue tan grande como cualquier otro de sus contemporáneos —Azzedine Alaïa era el único sobreviviente de la era dorada y moderna de la Haute CoutureAhora, el legado que deja es un despliegue de exquisitas piezas que se han ganado el reconocimiento de una industria entera. Hoy la moda llora su muerte pero su esencia se queda para inspirar al futuro. Él fue Azzedine Alaïa, un apasionado del arte de la moda y quien deja un efecto irremplazable.

I couldn’t bring myself to write about this yesterday, because I hoped it wasn’t true. Even now, I’m still hoping. Azzedine Alaïa is a genius; but more than that, he was a wonderful, kind, compassionate, generous and beautiful human being, who it was my privilege to meet, to know and to love, for not long enough. I was always slightly incredulous that he would want to talk to me, and that I could call him my friend. He once told me I wasn’t a friend, I was family. So many people are part of Azzedine’s family, touched by the immense spirit of this amazing man, always in Chinese pyjamas, making magic. Magic in his clothes, of course, but also in the community around him – his family. I don’t speak French; he doesn’t speak English. So how could we talk, for hours, in some of the most inspiring and precious exchanges of my life? I don’t understand it. Regrets are useless, but inevitable. I wish I’d spent more time with him when I could, seen him more. I treasure those times I did get to spend with this incredible man. They say you should never meet your idols. That’s bullshit. I met mine. And he was wonderful.

A post shared by Alexander Fury (@alexanderfury) on

One of my favourite photos of Azzedine Alaia…the wit, the playfulness, the love…eternal. Thank you @faridakhelfa @jeanpaulgoudeofficial, and to the magician himself.

A post shared by Tim Blanks (@timblanks) on

Dear papa , I was blessed in my life to meet you and for your embrace at 16 ,so many wonderful memories of you through out our journey together . I got to experience what it was like to be around a Genius !!! You taught me and opened my eyes to so many things in life , and how to strive for perfection , as you were PERFECTION and UNIQUE and will always be . No one understood the body of a woman more than you . That made us feel good about ourselves inside out . You did all the fatherly duties my unknown father should have . You ignited happiness to all whom were around you , from dancing in the kitchen to playing practical jokes . You protected me and loved me unconditionally . Im eternally , grateful to you the day you picked up the phone and called my mother to tell her you were taking me in . Papa until we meet again on the other side , I know you will continue to guide me , and always be in my heart . May you Rest In Peace I love you papa Ta Fille Naomi 💔🙏🏾. Thank you for all the condolences I have received 🙏🏾

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A true artist, genius and master. He was always kind, friendly and supportive of me. He welcomed me when I first came to Paris. We had some great adventures and many good times. His talent is unparalleled and his playful character generous, naughty and wickedly unique. The exceptional beauty he created is timeless and will without question- live forever! I pray that Azzedine will rest in peace 💔💔💔

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Azzedine Alia circa 1978 RIP

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Simply the best! No one like you! It was an honor to know you. You will be missed so greatly! Rest In Peace Mr. Alaia

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GOD Bless this. Talented and Beautiful Soul! ♥️🌺♥️🌺♥️ Azzedjne Alaia ♥️🌺♥️🌺🌺♥️! I was so Lucky to know him. Work with him and laugh with him!! 🙏🏻 May he rest in Peace! 🙏🏻 @stevenmeisel_

A post shared by Madonna (@madonna) on

So sad to wake up to the tragic news that #AzzedineAlaia passed away. Besides being a creative genius, he was one of the sweetest people I have ever met. The way he dressed a woman’s body was such a revelation to me as a young model in Chicago because his designs embraced my curves. One of the very first designer pieces I ever bought myself was one of his famous body suits with a skin tight skirt to match in a gold knit fabric from Ultimo in Chicago. Worn with an Alaia belt cinching in my waist, I felt like a million dollars. What an honor it was to model for him only a few years later in Paris at his atelier. He made all of his models feel beautiful and the fashion world will never forget him. 💔

A post shared by Cindy Crawford (@cindycrawford) on

I’ll mourn forever the loss of my friend. A true genius in not only fashion but in his heart. He was a king and had the highest standards of design and work ethic. He was so giving, so loving, his heart so full and pure. I️’d watch in awe as he hand made each and every piece, his fingers touching the fabric like poetry. Then he would want to feed us all, and cook with his own hands and talk for hours at the table while his dogs would run around joyfully smelling the delicious food he made us. To say he was special would be an understatement. To say he was integral, important and influential to fashion is simply not enough. There was no one who did what he did. No one knew a woman’s body like him. He should be celebrated as one of the greatest fashion designers the world has ever known. I️ love you, Azzedine. I️’m devastated I️ didn’t get to say goodbye. I️ love you.

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A sad day. Rest in peace @azzedinealaiaofficial …The world is a far less beautiful place today without you. You were a true master and one of my biggest inspirations 🙏🏻 x VB

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